Pubs in Wapping〜ワッピング・ローカルパブ
Continuing from the previous blog, let's delve into the pubs around Wapping. A must-visit pub in the Tower Hill vicinity is located in St. Katharine Docks – Dickens Inn. Opened in 1976 by Cedric Charles Dickens, the great-grandson of the 19th-century literary giant, Charles Dickens.
What is St Katharine Docks（セント・キャサリンドック）とは？
This site was originally the location of St. Katharine by the Tower, a hospital founded by Queen Matilda in the 12th century for the poor. The place derived its name from the nearby St. Katharine's Hospital. Despite the dissolution of monasteries during Henry VIII's reign in the 16th century and the collapse during the 17th-century English Civil War, the hospital endured. Although it relocated, the St. Katharine's Royal Foundation still has its base in East London today.
St. Katharine Docks opened in 1828 to accommodate the increasing number of merchant ships entering London from around the world. It was designed by the renowned Scottish engineer Thomas Telford. The excavated soil from the site was used as a foundation for developing new residential areas in the Pimlico and Belgravia districts of West London, which were marshy.
The goods handled here were specialized in luxury items such as ivory, spices, shells, sugar, rubber, wine, perfume, and marble. The high walls surrounding the docks were meant to secure these valuable commodities. Many five to six-story warehouses were built close to the water, allowing direct loading and unloading of cargo from ships using cranes, thereby reducing the risk of theft by maritime gangs.
However, like other London docks, St. Katharine Docks couldn't adapt to containerization introduced in the 1960s, making it unsuitable for accommodating large ships and leading to its decline. It closed in 1968, and all other London docks were shut down by 1980.
Today, it has transformed into a marina for yachts and cruisers, with the surrounding area featuring upscale apartments and trendy restaurants, bringing back vitality to the location.
いざ、パブ巡りへ！Pub Crawl in Wapping!
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いざ、パブ巡りへ！Pub Crawl in Wapping! 〰️
The charming Dickens Inn, with its thatched roof and timber-framed structure, is located right next to Tower Bridge in St. Katharine Docks. Originally built in the 18th century as a warehouse for a local brewery or a tea company, it was transformed into a pub in 1976 by the great-grandson of the literary giant, Charles Dickens. The upper floors also house a delightful restaurant, providing a versatile setting for various scenes.
Starting from here, it would be a great idea to trace the footsteps of Dickens, who was particularly fond of East London pubs! Head eastward along Wapping High Street.
The original pub is said to have existed around the time of the Wars of the Roses in the 1460s, but the generally accepted history points to the Red Cow, which opened in 1545. The town of Ramsgate is a harbor town located along the coast of Kent, southeast of London.
Adjacent to the pub is a staircase called Wapping Old Stairs. This staircase is associated with the infamous judge George Jeffreys, who was known for his enthusiasm for executions. He served the Catholic James II, despite being a Protestant, and played a role in suppressing the Protestants attempting to depose the king. In 1685, Protestant discontent reached its peak, leading to the Monmouth Rebellion. The rebellion was quelled, more than 1,400 people involved were tried, over 300 were sentenced to death by hanging at the hands of Judge Jeffreys, and over 800 were sent as slaves to new territories like Jamaica and the Cayman Islands.
In the end, James II was ousted in the Glorious Revolution of 1688, and the era of joint rule by Protestant Mary II and William III began.
Despite his harsh persecution of Protestants, Judge Jeffreys attempted to escape incognito by disguising himself as a sailor. However, he succumbed to the temptation of having a final drink at a tavern. As he attempted to ascend the stairs to buy a drink, his disguise was uncovered, and he was apprehended. He was imprisoned in the Tower of London and died a few years later due to liver disease.
J.M.W. Turner, the celebrated Romantic painter of Britain, was born in 1775 as the son of a barber and wigmaker in Covent Garden, London. Recognized as a genius from a young age, Turner left behind numerous masterpieces. Despite his difficult personality, he remained a lifelong bachelor. Nevertheless, his love affairs were constant, notably with Peggy Booth, whom he met in 1833 and remained with until Turner's passing.
Turner purchased a building in Wapping, renovated it into a pub, and appointed Mrs. Booth as the manager, naming it "THE OLD STAR." In 1987, in homage to Turner, it was renamed "TURNER’S OLD STAR." The pub exudes a very homely atmosphere with a strong sense of local authenticity.
One incident at the pub illustrates the friendly nature of the British. When attempting to buy beer using a card and realizing it didn't meet the minimum purchase amount, a British gentleman in line behind the visitor bought the drinks for them. Such gestures highlight the warmth and kindness found in the UK.
Turner's self-portrait is displayed at Tate Britain, and one of the most beloved works, "The Fighting Temeraire," can be found at the National Gallery. Both paintings are featured on the reverse side of the £20 banknote.
The place originally served as a three-story warehouse for storing coffee in the 19th century. The shop is named after one of the most ill-fated pirates (or perhaps not a pirate at all!), Captain William Kidd. Captain Kidd's name is more commonly known, and he is featured in the anime "One Piece." Captain Kidd was a real historical figure, and the supposed treasure he "buried" has sparked interest, becoming a subject in works like Stevenson's "Treasure Island" and Edgar Allan Poe's "The Gold-Bug."
Kidd was born in Scotland in 1654 and initially became a privateer, authorized by the state to attack enemy ships. While attacking the targets specified by government orders was officially sanctioned, Kidd's crew began raiding ships indiscriminately, and some of them actually turned into pirates.
During Kidd's time in the Caribbean, the rules changed, and betrayed by both his crew and his patron, he was arrested, brought back to England, and executed at Wapping's Execution Dock in 1701. Unfortunately, the first rope broke midway through the hanging, so he had to be hanged twice. Furthermore, his body was coated in tar, placed in a gibbet, and hung as a display for three years at a different location.
Captain Kidd, who likely never intended to become a pirate and probably didn't see himself as one, faced a tragic end. Reflecting on the Thames and contemplating his story in the quiet atmosphere of the pub could be a poignant experience.
